The Art of Vegan Dining at Mulin Visconti
I returned to Mulin Visconti for the third time, and for the third time, they touched my heart.
This time, it was June, and the menu had evolved to reflect the season—embracing both the abundance of summer produce and the rhythms of the natural world. There is a sense of purity and freshness in Angelo Domaneschi’s cuisine that completely captivated me.
To be honest, it wasn’t only his food that left such a strong impression. It was also the dedication with which he prepares each dish and the passion with which he explains it. You can tell how deeply he cares about his craft, and I will never fail to appreciate someone who pours their heart into what they do.
This time, we also had the pleasure of being accompanied by Felice Previtali, the restaurant’s sommelier and the man responsible for the magnificent one-hectare garden that supplies many of the exceptional ingredients Angelo uses in his kitchen.
The garden itself is remarkable, and so is Felice. A man with hands that look as though they could crush stones, he is as impressive as the land he cultivates. Yet his role extends far beyond tending the garden. He also serves guests in the dining room and oversees the wine program, bringing the same care and passion to every aspect of the experience.
Meeting both Angelo and Felice made it clear that Mulin Visconti is much more than a restaurant. It is a place built on dedication, authenticity, and a genuine love for what they do—and that spirit shines through in every detail.
The appetizers were outstanding, as always, and featured a few delightful summer surprises.
One of the highlights was a stuffed olive filled with a rich walnut cream. It looked fried, but it wasn’t. Instead, it was coated through multiple layers of coarsely ground flaxseed flour and dehydrated for a couple of hours, creating an incredible crunch without ever touching hot oil.
We also enjoyed freshly picked edible flowers, harvested just a few hours before service. They were lightly cleaned, their naturally bitter pistils removed, and then filled with a vibrant kimchi cream. The kimchi was made from green and purple cabbage, carrots, and a touch of shallot, all finely julienned, massaged with salt, and fermented. Remarkably, this particular batch has been aging for nearly five years, developing extraordinary depth and complexity. As with nearly everything here, the vegetables came directly from the restaurant’s own garden.
The spring onions were deceptively simple: gently sautéed with a drizzle of olive oil, finished with a touch of soy sauce, sea salt, and rice vinegar. Sweet, balanced, and full of flavor.
Finally, there were delicate canapés made from flaxseed crackers that had been dehydrated overnight after being seasoned with a little soy sauce. They were topped with a creamy spread that evoked the flavor of Parmesan, yet contained no dairy at all—just soaked and blended cashews and macadamia nuts, skillfully seasoned to achieve that savory, umami-rich character.
The risotto was made with Carnaroli rice sourced from the province of Pavia, a variety widely regarded as one of Italy’s finest risotto rices. Toasted and deglazed with dry white wine, it was slowly cooked with vegetable broth until perfectly creamy.
What made this dish truly special, however, was the saffron. The saffron stigmas came directly from the restaurant’s own garden, where they are harvested by hand each autumn during a month-long harvest that demands incredible patience and dedication. The saffron was added during the final stage of the cooking process, along with a house-made vegan butter crafted from cocoa butter, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and water, emulsified and chilled until it achieved the texture of traditional butter.
To finish the risotto, it was enriched with the restaurant’s signature aged plant-based “cheese,” made from macadamia nuts that are soaked, cultured, and aged for months until they can be grated just like a traditional hard cheese. The result was a beautifully balanced risotto with remarkable depth, richness, and elegance.
The cannelloni were equally impressive. Made with fresh pasta prepared in-house using organic stone-ground Senatore Cappelli flour, water, olive oil, sea salt, and a touch of turmeric for color, the dough was rolled by hand using a vintage pasta machine that has been in the family for generations.
The pasta was filled with a rich lentil ragù, rolled into cannelloni, and topped with a creamy plant-based béchamel along with a spoonful of the restaurant’s homemade tomato sauce. Every year, the kitchen preserves its own tomatoes, grown in the garden from more than a dozen different heirloom varieties and harvested at peak ripeness.
A final dusting of their aged plant-based cheese and a brief gratin in the oven completed the dish. i had to eat the rice twice, as it was soooo good!
Following the pasta course, a wonderful entrée arrived: a beautifully prepared savory tart filled with tender zucchini and brightened by a delicate touch of fresh mint. The sweetness of the zucchini paired perfectly with the mint’s refreshing character, creating a dish that felt both comforting and remarkably light. Simple in concept yet elegant in execution, it was another example of how thoughtfully selected ingredients can shine when treated with care and restraint.
The meal concluded with an extraordinary raw vegan dessert—one that had never been cooked and had never seen either a stovetop or an oven.
The base was crafted from dates, almonds, cashews, macadamia nuts, cocoa butter, coconut butter, sea salt, organic lemon zest, fresh lemon juice, pure vanilla, and raw cacao nibs. Layered above was a vibrant combination of organic pineapple, Sicilian oranges, and mixed berries, bringing brightness and natural sweetness to the dessert.
The chocolate component was carefully prepared at low temperature, never exceeding 104°F (40°C), to preserve its raw qualities. Made with maple syrup, cocoa powder, cocoa butter, and sea salt, it delivered deep, intense flavor without overwhelming the fruit.
The outer white layer was a silky cashew ganache sweetened with agave nectar and enriched with vanilla, cocoa butter, and a touch of sea salt. On the side, a single hazelnut and a compote made from reduced bitter orange peel added both texture and complexity.
It was a truly phenomenal dessert—beautifully balanced, elegant, and unforgettable. In fact, the dessert alone would be reason enough for me to recommend a visit to Mulin Visconti.
Finally, beyond the coffee, the evening concluded with a selection of house-made liqueurs. On this occasion, there were two available: elderflower and basil.
I chose the elderflower liqueur, and by now you've probably guessed where the flowers came from—their own garden, of course. It was rich, intensely aromatic, and absolutely delicious, a perfect way to end an unforgettable meal.
I'll be returning very soon to celebrate my partner's birthday. Neither of us can wait—not only to enjoy these remarkable dishes again, but also to see Angelo and Felice, along with their wonderful dog, Airon, and their magnificent cat, Holy.
Some restaurants impress you with their food. Mulin Visconti goes a step further: it makes you feel genuinely welcome, and that's what keeps drawing me back.
I'll leave you with the menu we enjoyed during our visit in June 2026.
Last but not least, Angelo and Felice at Mulin Visconti have two bedrooms available for rent. Breakfast is included each morning, and guests staying on the property can enjoy a fantastic swimming pool.
Address
Vlla Molino Soncino, 2
26012 Castelleone (CR), Lombardy, Italy
